ASHEVILLE, N.C. — Ryan Guthy’s well-stocked beer cooler is resting at the ready in the carriage at the back of his golf cart, when he waves his hand, catching you off-guard. The beer cart approaches.

Decades ago, two Totas embarked on a bike ride through Rome that left them exhausted and hungry. They needed sustenance and to escape the Mediterranean sun. Like an oasis in the streets, my uncles ...